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Many of us don’t put enough thought into scrambled eggs.  We crack some eggs into a bowl, whisk it up until blended, pour ’em into a hot non-stick skillet and call it a day. Most scrambled eggs end up with curds that are large, foamy, dry and flavorless, notwithstanding some notes of sulfur.

Before we make the eggs, we must first understand how they work:

  1. Egg proteins begin as folded chains of amino acids.
  2. As they’re heated, they move faster and faster, bump into each other and unravel.
  3. These chains re-bond to each other, forming a network.
  4. With constant stirring, solid, but moist curds form.
  • For good eggs, start by thoroughly scrambling them with a whisk or a fork until they become a homogenous mixture.
  • To avoid rubbery eggs, an additional liquid must be added. This dilutes the proteins and forms a looser, yet still stable network upon coagulation. Cream, milk or even butter are the best bets. I add a splash of cream and a splash or orange juice. Here’s why:
  • Proteins have negative charges and repel each other. Fruit juices—like orange juice—are acids and lower the pH, decreasing the repelling charge. Consequently, proteins aggregate sooner, before they have a chance to unravel completely and form strong bonds. Also, salt dissolves into positively and negatively charged ions, effectively neutralizing the proteins and, similarly, creating a more tender curd. Thus, I also add salt to my eggs for that reason and the fact that eggs too need to be seasoned.
  • Add butter to a pan on low heat. When the butter jsut starts to bubble, add the eggs and stir constantly until many small curds form. Add the cheese of your choice and mix until there is still a thin coating of liquid on the curds. This is the thin white that takes longer to coagulate than the yolk. Remove from the heat, and the thin white will start to coagulate, yet your eggs will be at the peak of moisture and tenderness. Finally, the combined efforts of the low eat and acid will reduce the eggy flavor and aroma that turns people off.
Harold McGee On Food And Cooking helped me better understand eggs.

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This is the kind of breakfast that you drink a Mimosa with; the kind of breakfast that Daniel Boulud makes at home in the morning. I want to tell you what’s in it now, but you’re going to have to read the recipe.

Ingredients (for 1):

  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon sour cream or creme fraiche
  • 1 brown tomatoes (I used Kumato)
  • feta cheese crumbles
  • black truffle butter—its street name is “pleasure”
  • mache (lamb’s lettuce)
  • Wegman’s basting oil with grapeseed oil, canola oil, thyme, parsley, and garlic
  • 1 slice of toast

1. Make a double boiler by boiling water in a saucepan and placing a glass bowl on top—make sure the bowl’s bottom does not touch the water. Whisk in the eggs with the sour cream or creme fraiche. Add sea salt and black pepper. Whisk often.

2. Toast some bread. Use anything on hand. Slather with black truffle butter. Continue whisking the eggs—it takes a while. I placed a lid on the bowl, a few times to speed up the process. The eggs are done when the curds form and they are moist, but not oozy. They should be a little more stable than cottage cheese, yet more custard-like than your usual eggs.

3. Spoon eggs onto the bread along with the thin slices of brown tomato (feel free to use any good quality tomato). Drizzle the oil around the plate and on the tomatoes and lettuce garnish. Top with feta cheese crumbles and some extra Crème Fraîche or what you will. Savor the pleasures of what breakfast was meant to be: unadulterated by Bisquick, Aunt Jemima, or hash browns.

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